Beantown!

Well. The weather was fixing to get pretty rowdy this week so we decided to clear out of Manchester by the Sea on Sunday morning to avoid a rougher-than-necessary ride to Boston.

But before that happened, our buddy Matthew took the train up from Dedham and came to visit us on Saturday. He was our first overnight guest! We hung around Manchester, walked to Singing Beach, ate some ice cream, made pizza dough, made pizza, danced on the roof when the wedding band at the yacht club played. Good stuff!

The harbor at Manchester by the Sea is so crowded, some boats put laundry baskets over their propellors so they don’t damage their neighbors if they get too close at slack tide. Also, wow is it lovely here.

And before Matthew got to Manchester, Ellen and I spent a night moored at Misery Island and then a night anchored outside the Manchester by the Sea harbor. On Misery we circumnavigated the island, investigated the ruins on the island left behind after a resort there failed 100 years ago. After the resort, the property was home to about 45 summer residences that were destroyed in a brush fire. Now it is conservation land owned by a trust and open to the public. I tried going for a run on the trails Friday morning but called it quits after about a mile and a half because I didn’t want to break my ankle and get eaten by the herd of deer on the island before anyone noticed I hadn’t returned to the boat.

In addition to being a picture of lovely Ellen, this one is a treat because it lets you read the word crenellations in a sentence today.

We are really lichen this adventure so far.

Looks like a New England cousin of Stonehenge, but it’s actually the base of the old water tower on the island.

Sunday morning we dropped the mooring and headed to Boston. It was a short run of about 21 miles. What we learned is that Cyclops has a lot of bottles that clink and rattle in a bouncy sea state. It was a bouncy sea state. Just ask Friday…she barfed and then dozed unhappily the rest of the trip. Once we got inside the harbor islands things settled a bit and we could concentrate on all the commercial vessels, law enforcement vessels, pleasure vessels, and exciting views.

Waste treatment plant looks like giant eggs and acorns.

It was entertaining to watch Matthew try to identify the buildings in his city. He’s lived and worked in Boston since the 1980s but was all turned around approaching by water.

The Bunker Hill Memorial Bridge reminds us of the Penobscot Narrows Bridge in Maine. That illustrates what country mice we are.

We are at the Constitution Marina, you can see the masts of the USS Constitution behind the building in the background. This place is slathered with history. This morning Ellen and I went on our run along the waterfront past the Constitution to the Naval Yard, then we finished up at the Bunker Hill Monument. And on the way home we played chess at a park near the site of the first English settlement here in 1629. The tables had boards built in, and there were tupperware boxes with chessmen. Fantastic!

This Boston is a hopping, colorful town.

The biggest fright of the day is that when we called the Constitution Marina to ask for our slip assignment, they gave us the chilling news that they wanted us to back into our slip. BACK INTO OUR SLIP! That’s something I’ve been saying we should learn to do since 2022, but I’ve been putting it off. Because it is really really hard. The boat walks to starboard in reverse. That feature, coupled with the bow thruster, makes docking forward pretty easy. But in reverse? Yikes.

Well, I had a crackerjack crew aboard and went at it slowly and carefully. Slow like a pro, as the kids say. The fairway leading to the slip was narrow, the boats had their anchors and bowsprits pointing at us, ready to gouge the hull. Cyclops does not like a crosswind, (who does?) and I didn’t know how to keep the stern parallel to the narrow slip as I approached. Then I learned I can get the girl to pivot with the bow thruster. It’s counter-intuitive to push the bow to starboard in an effort to pivot the stern to port, but after three tries I figured it out and got the job done without incident. In fact, the dock master told us we looked pretty salty.

There are locks and drawbridges galore around here. Drawbridges to get the trains to North Station, locks to get boats in and out of the Mystic River. And pedestrian paths along the water – everyone in Charlestown is young and out jogging. We don’t know when they go to work! The place is also crawling with preschools and preschoolers. So much energy! We know what everyone is doing when they are not out jogging.

Boats. Water. Machinery. Yowza, this place is great.

This is for the stick and ball people. The Bruins are a local sport team. TD Garden used to be called Boston Garden and it is where sporting competitions are frequently held. More importantly, it’s where we saw the Grateful Dead at the end of last century.

Because we are tourists and life-long learners, we walked a bit of the Freedom Trail. The Copp’s Hill Burying Ground has been a final resting place for nearly 400 years. And is beautiful. And is chock-full of stories.

When I was in law school I realized that the library wasn’t full of dull legal text (ok, of course it was) but that every one of the hundreds of cases in those thousands of books told the story of some kind of human interaction. A cemetery is the same thing – every grave marks an entire universe of a person’s life.

There’s a Star Market not far from the marina, so we picked up some provisions. This display selling pinecones also made us feel like country mice. Who buys pine cones? People who don’t live near pine trees, I suppose. (To be fair, these are vanilla or possibly cinnamon scented pine cones, not the run of the mill pine scented pine cones with which we are most familiar.)

Manchester by the Sea

Gloucester was a fun town and we thoroughly enjoyed out visit. Yesterday we added to the excitement by defrosting the refrigerator! That activity requires us to remove everything from the fridge and patiently wait for the ice that formed on the cold plate to melt. We definitely do not try to move things along by using a metal knife, even if it is a butter knife. Right Ellen?

We went for a long walk along the waterfront yesterday and came across this sweet little beach. No swimming for us, but it definitely adds to the town’s appeal.

…So does a teddy bear tea party in the street.

This morning after a leisurely start we slowly motored about eight miles down to Manchester by the Sea. We are so close to Boston the skyline is starting to loom large on the horizon, but we’ve got a week before we need to be there so we are taking baby steps down the coast.

Plein air painting class.

Manchester by the Sea is a gorgeous harbor. The anchorage is extremely well protected and extremely crowded. Perhaps the most astonishing thing about this place is that by asking politely at the yacht club, visiting yachts get complimentary moorings. (A donation to the club’s Christmas fund is recommended.)

We are among so many beautiful boats, packed cheek-by-jowl. There’s another Nordic Tug 37 moored nearby, the first we’ve seen on our travels this season.

Also, can we talk about the spectacular blue sky?

Ellen and I walked to town after we got the boat squared away and ate lunch. Then we took the dinghy to town so we could get some groceries. There’s a nice town dock about 50 yards from a terrific grocery store. Couldn’t be easier.

Now we are relaxing aboard, listening to the chuckle of water on the hull and the tink tink of halyards on masts.

Working harbor

We went for a run this morning. It was lovely going past the famous Gloucester Fisherman’s Memorial and then loads of flowerbeds full of dahlias.

The memorial honors Gloucester mariners lost at sea over the centuries. There are thousands of names. And nine new ones since we were last here in 2019.

The wind is up today and has shifted 180 degrees from when we arrived. So as it stretched out the anchor chain we were treated to the excitement of the anchor alarm sounding. Don’t worry, we are holding fast.

Look at the big girl who came rumbling past while we were eating lunch.

Gloucester fishing boats are the real deal.

And this is how things looked in the still, foggy evening.

Project day

It’s a rainy Sunday here in Gloucester so Ellen and I are getting things done. First we installed the accumulator for the fresh water system. An accumulator is a pressure tank that lets the sinks, showers, and toilet all run off stored pressure instead of requiring the pump to cycle every time we crack a faucet. Went in easy as can be…that PEX is a dream to use. And this plumbing project didn’t end with me drilling superfluous holes anywhere in the boat. Also, no leaks.

Pipe tape to prevent leaks.

Ready to install.

Glamor shot.

Done.

Next up, I changed the primary engine fuel filter. It was filtering fine but I have no idea how long it has been doing its thing and figured it was worth swapping it out. No pictures, but imagine a drippy mess of diesel fuel all over the side of the engine room and you have the idea. It’s all together and not leaking. Done.

After that I installed vice 2.0 on the underside of a storage space lid in the guest room. The big boy I crowed about a few days ago was just too cumbersome to work around so we left it in Freeport. On our previous boat (Cupcake, a wonderful old girl) I installed a vice under a lid and it worked great.

Measure once, cut twice.

The guy at the hardware store was hovering in a most irksome manner when I bought the hardware to attach the vice. And because of his hoveration I felt rushed and didn’t check to ensure all the bolts were the same length. One ended up being 1/4” too short. Ugh. I made it work, but in the future Mr. Hardware Store Guy, just leave me alone I know what to do.

Click me.

I’m hopeful we won’t even need a vice any time soon. In any event, another job done.

Finally, Ellen is hard at work preparing the finials for the wedding chuppah we are tasked with creating for Zachary and Kat’s wedding at the end of the month. (Raise your hand if you had to look up at least one of the words in that last sentence.)

It’s 4pm and still raining. But we are hungry for fried food, so we will be putting our foulies on and braving the damp to head to shore. We think our new friends on Luru may join us as well.

Gloucester

Had a lovely smooth ride to Gloucester this morning. Anchored in the Inner Harbor, had the pump-out boat come to empty the holding tank. We attempted to empty the tank ourselves when we were more than three miles from shore (as the rules permit) but our pump wouldn’t pump. So after the tank was emptied we dug into the discharge pump (yuck) and replaced the duck valves. That did the trick. No pictures for you, but if you imagine watery cold diarrhea you get the idea.

Thatcher Island lighthouses. They are aligned on a north/south axis so mariners can check their compasses.

Instead here’s Gloucester for you. Such a great coastal New England town. We walked around on shore for a bit and then took a tour of the harbor in the dinghy.

The adventure begins!

Today was a big one. We stayed at a marina in Portland last night so we could be close to the realtor’s office for the house closing. This morning we walked to the closing, signed a bunch of papers that we should have read more carefully than we did, and walked back to the boat feeling light and euphoric.

Last night a bunch of friends came down to the marina to say goodbye. We had a super nice time and appreciate all the kindness and love everyone showed us. We will miss you too.

Oh no! Ellen used her French press as a vase for the roses Iris brought. What about the coffee?

After the closing we slipped the lines and headed to Isles of Shoals, an island group just off the New Hampshire coast. We are anchored behind the breakwater for Gosport Harbor with the island blocking the diminishing west wind, and with the wide open Atlantic Ocean to our back.

Ok, so it’s not the best picture but this is Isles of Shoals.

The ride down here was uneventful, and that’s a good thing. Leaving Portland and Maine for the next two years is a big step but excitement and exploration and adventure await to the south and we are so excited to be on our way.

Happy Ellen.

A big Morgan ketch Luru came in and anchored behind us. They have two parents, two kids, and THREE DOGS on board. After they took the dogs to shore, the mom and kids (and THREE DOGS) stopped by to say hello because they saw our home port is Freeport. They are also from Freeport, starting a year long trip to the Bahamas. If we weren’t doing the same thing we would be crazy jealous (aside from the THREE DOGS).

Tonight’s neighbors.

Pressure relief

Ellen and I moved the boat about two miles to a protected anchorage after a noisy night at our home mooring. (Home mooring for less than a week – then we’ve got no terrestrial home!) I decided this was as good a time as any to address some maintenance. When it’s a little bouncy, the sound of the water against the hull in the forward cabin can be a bit much. It was tough to sleep in this morning. (Ok, it was tough for me, Ellen has no such issues.)

The engine has excellent oil pressure, but when I switch from low idle (around 600 rpm) to high idle (around 1100 rpm) the oil pressure gauge pegs at high. If I throttle up in gear the gauge will also peg at high for a minute or two and then will find its way back to 55 psi where it belongs.

See the white bolt head just above the red thing? That’s where it all started.

I thought I diagnosed it as a faulty sensor but got a faulty new sensor that didn’t read anything. So I got the part (I thought) to replace the pressure relief valve. Today I opened it up to check it out. The relief valve looked fine…it moved smoothly in its bore, it had no galling or significant wear. When I went to put it all back together I realized that because of the tight quarters in that part of the engine I was unable to compress the spring and thread the cap back on. Oh boy.

The challenge was to compress the spring and thread the cap on at the same time. No room for a socket wrench. And the engine was still warm enough that I got a burn/blister on my pointer finger. Poor me!

Ellen offered a third hand but there was definitely no room for that. Then she suggested I remove the alternator so I did. Pulled the alternator out of my way and got the relief valve back together. No leaks. That’s the good news. No change in the gauge readings. That’s the bad. Hmm.

Got it done!

Ok, I guess the other good news is that I am getting to know the engine. So far we seem to be getting along pretty well.

Friday was not much help but she is keeping an eye on things out back.

Beautification committee

Ellen and I have been working with the stained glass artist who made the glass for the cabinet doors last year. We wanted something similar for the tall cabinet. Well, the piece finally arrived today and looks wonderful. Thanks stained glass artist Lindsey Konopka! She’s on Facebook at Portland’s Magic Corner. (The other Portland.)

In more prosaic news, the warranty replacement for the Orion TR 12/24-10 converter (inverter?) arrived! This thing is a magic box that takes 12v and steps it up to 24v so there is less loss of the something something as it travels along the wire I used to connect the Starlink. The original started to intermittently go dead. Even though it was a year old and was a refurbished unit to begin with, Inverters-R-Us (yes, their real name…find them at invertersrus.com) covered it under the excellent Victron warranty and sent us a replacement. I had been using an AC power source in the interim, so it’s nice to get things back to DC. We were concerned the warranty process would take too long and we wouldn’t receive the replacement in time, but here it is. Thanks Inverters-R-Us!

We are nine days from the house closing, after that we will have no shoreside home and will start heading south. This schedule means any Amazon orders better happen speedy quick if we hope to get the deliveries before we up anchor. Need to get a waterproof digital camera and more fuel filters.

I had a nice lunch in Brunswick with my friend Jeremy today. Thanks for making the trip down from Camden! When Ellen and I have read blogs about people who did what we are doing (selling the house, storing the treasures, living aboard full-time) they always talk about the hectic last days before leaving home. All the packing, provisioning, goodbyes. It’s bittersweet - we’ve had such a nice time living in Freeport, I loved my job and the people I worked with, love Maine and plan to return in a few years when we start to dial back our travels a bit. But it is also so exciting to set off on this new adventure.

Jeremy asked me if Ellen and I were worried about lack of intellectual challenges living aboard. We get some version of this question often (some people ask if we will be bored with this life). It’s such an exciting, dynamic existence with so many variables and considerations we need to keep track of each day that I don’t see us getting bored. Hasn’t happened yet and this is not our first go-around on a boat. Plus, since I met her in 1988 I have never been able to get enough of Ellen. Being able to work as a team every day is the realization of a dream.

On that note, let’s end with this lovely image.

Head blockage

So I kind of gave away the theme of today’s post in the headline. We’ve known for a while that the head vent was clogged. This situation is a problem because when we flush the toilet all that shit needs to be able to displace air from the tank. And the vent is how that air escapes. When it can’t vent through the deck fitting the tank ends up “venting” brown shit water into the bilge. We learned this fascinating bit of physics this morning when I did a bilge check and saw (and smelled) the consequences. We had about three gallons of the stuff sloshing around down there. Oh my.

So while Ellen went paddle boarding with our friend Jenny I emptied the cabinet under the head sink, pulled off the access panel in the back, located and cut the end off the head vent hose. As soon as I did, the back-pressure in the tank released with an aromatic whooooof. Delightful.

You can see the disconnected head vent at the top. The other vent is for the shower holding tank. The guys at the bottom are shower discharge and (I think) AC discharge.

Fortunately the clog was in the very end of the vent at the hull fitting. I didn’t have to replace the vent hose or investigate anything closer to that nasty tank. The screens on the hull fitting were corroded and blocked so I first tried to clean them, then simply removed them I reinstalled the hose and buttoned everything back up. Mischief managed.

This is where I had to crawl in to get to the vent hose.

This is the hull fitting. The holes are where I removed the clogged screen from it. Someone needs to get in there with some rust remover…things are looking sloppy!

Initially I didn’t know how the bits of the hull fitting were attached so I taped it to the hull just in case it wanted to fall into the briny deep.

Ellen got back from her paddle and heroically sponged the bilge dry. We both cleaned and bleached the bilge in the engine room and in the tank room. Now we are back in business.

Yesterday we headed up the New Meadows River to anchor near the home of our friends Matt and Jenny. We kayaked to their house and they gave us a ride to Barn Stomp – a musical extravaganza over in Harpswell where our friend Jim was playing with his band. Food truck, oyster bar, tons of friendly happy people. It was a wonderful evening of excellent music and company. Thank you again Matt and Jenny!

Earlier this week I mounted my bench vise on a maple plank so I can use it aboard should the need arise. We are not traveling light. The vise belonged to my granduncle Phil and I know he would have gotten a kick out of the fact that it is now traveling with us on a boat.

Last week we stocked up on boxed milk. Ellen feels uncomfortable if we have anything less than an 18 month supply…(kidding, not really kidding).


And we are essentially moved out of the house. It felt particularly good to drop our snow shovels off at the swap shop at the Freeport Transfer Station. Won’t be needing those things again.

Ellen harvested the peaches from our trees, blanched, peeled, pitted, and froze them. So we have peach smoothies and hand pies in our future.

This picture represents just a fraction of the bounty we enjoyed this year.

In order to get to our anchorage up the New Meadows River we decided to pass through the Jaquish Gut. It’s a narrow passage lined with tourists ready to post any encounter with a rock. Pretty fun stuff.

Last week we went through the narrow passage between Sow and Pigs. Cyclops likes a tricky bit of maneuvering. You can say “I told you so” when all this close work ends in tears one day.

And let’s end on a lovely note with this sunset photo.

So many things!

Hello internet friends! It has been a while since I sat down to provide an update. Many things have been happening, so buckle up. (Trigger warning: if you came here for boat content, this entry may be a little light in that regard.)

We’ve been up to our ears with enjoying summer in Maine, visiting the people, packing up the house, packing Moss off to college, loading the boat. Oh my goodness.

Topsham Fair demolition derby.

One of the things we are doing these days is selling our surplus stuff. So far we’ve moved bookcases, bureaus, diesel jugs, desk chairs, end tables, cars, trucks and so much else out of our lives.

The truck was our beloved 2003 Toyota Tacoma. The best vehicle we have ever owned. But when I was in the midst of replacing a cracked rear spring last month I could no longer pretend the frame wasn’t dangerously rusty. I was able to poke a screwdriver through the frame at the rear spring shackle attachment point. Just not safe. So I stopped the repair and put the truck on Marketplace.

Oof. That’s some rust.

There was lots of interest because even rusty, these trucks are fabulous. And someone with the skills to weld can save them. Anyway, the guy who came to buy the truck was super patient. He was unfazed when, because the axle wasn’t attached to the old springs, the driveshaft fell out of the slip joint as I was trying to drive the truck onto his trailer. He was also ok with the situation when the whole rear axle shifted 4” to the left and got all cattywampus in the wheel wells. He and I jacked the truck up, wiggled the axle into place, u-bolted it back together, and got the Tacoma onto his trailer in the end.

Success!

We are down to just the Austin Healey for our terrestrial vehicle. It makes sense that our daily driver is a 71 year old British car never known for reliability, safety, or weather protection.

After a long, long, long drive to Virginia in a rental minivan, we got Moss installed at William & Mary. It was a very emotional goodbye, we’ve enjoyed having that kid around and will miss her tremendously.

The house is getting empty now. There are no more rugs, most of the art is in storage, all the couches have been sold. And we’ve moved aboard Cyclops full time. We’ve been telling ourselves (and anyone who has patience to listen) that we expect to be living on this boat pretty much full time for the next three years. Yikes! We’re at our home mooring in Freeport, within sight of the house. But it feels so good to be on the water getting things squared away for life on this little tugboat.

Our top priority was hooking up the CO2 tank to the seltzer maker. Note the spare 5 pound cylinder.

This mess of supplies is the tip of the provisioning iceberg. We have enough cat food aboard to last through at least February

Tomorrow we head ashore to keep plugging away at emptying the house. We hope to have it clean and empty by Friday. Stay tuned to see if we meet that goal.